Retinyl Propionate at a Glance
- Stable, synthetic derivative of vitamin A
- Has an impressive synergy with niacinamide
- Offers the same benefits of retinol
- Gentler than pure retinol
Retinyl Propionate Description
Retinyl propionate is a synthetic ester derivative of vitamin A, made from pure retinol and propionic acid, a type of carboxylic acid that’s considered a volatile fatty acid. This combination makes for a more stable retinoid that has a longer half-life, meaning it takes longer for the ingredient to be metabolized, allowing for a longer stretch of efficacy.
This form of vitamin A has demonstrated all the same benefits of retinol, including visible reduction of fine lines and deep wrinkles, improvement of uneven skin tone, refining signs of enlarged pores, and fading the look of discolorations from sun exposure.
Research has demonstrated that most people tend to tolerate retinyl propionate better than retinol; however, if your skin tolerates retinol it remains one of the gold standard anti-aging ingredients to consider. Part of the reason for this greater tolerance is that the conversion of retinyl propionate to retinoic acid happens differently and more slowly than it does for retinol. This has to do with how retinyl propionate interacts with specific receptor sites within skin’s uppermost layers.
Usage levels of retinyl propionate in skin care range from 0.1–0.4%. It is often paired with niacinamide because this B vitamin enhances the stability and bioavailability of retinyl propionate.
Retinyl Propionate References
The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, September 2021, pages 33–40
Experimental Dermatology, February 2021, pages 226–236
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2021, pages 102–106; and December 2017, pages 589–599
British Journal of Dermatology, March 2010, pages 647–654
Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327–348
The Educational Journal of the British Association of Dermatologists, July 1998, pages 162–167