Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate at a Glance
- An emollient and surfactant formed by the combination of polyglycerin-4 + capric acid
- As a skin-conditioning agent, it smooths and hydrates skin
- Also works as a penetration enhancer for active ingredients, such as peptides
- Commercially, it can be synthetic or plant-derived, most often from rapeseed oil
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Description
Polyglyceryl-4 caprate is the ester of fatty acid capric acid and glycerin-derived polyglycerin-4 (a chain of 4 molecules of glycerin).
It belongs to the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters family, a category of naturally or synthetically derived ingredients used both in food and cosmetics, where they work as surfactants, emulsifiers and skin-conditioners.
Chemically they are polar or amphiphilic lipids, meaning they dissolve in both water and oil and work as emulsifies to disperse all ingredients and stabilize a formula. In essence, polyglyceryl-4 caprate is versatile!
Ingredients in this family can serve as penetration enhancers for ingredients that have low affinity for skin, helping a cosmetic produce more effective results.
In a skin care product, polyglyceryl-4 caprate also works as a conditioning and hydrating agent, locking moisture on the skin and preventing it from evaporating too quickly.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR) reviewed 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, including polyglyceryl-4 caprate, in 2023 and concluded they are safe in cosmetics in the current practices of use and concentrations and when formulated to be non-irritating. Polyglyceryl-4 caprate is safe at concentrations between 0.5 and 1.5% in leave-on and rinse-off products.
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Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate References
International Journal of Toxicology, August 2023, pages 5S–101S
Polymers, February 2020, pages 1–13
European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, November 2018, pages 137-144