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Malic Acid at a Glance

  • Exfoliating ingredient derived from unripe fruit
  • Has AHA and BHA properties
  • Boosts efficacy of other exfoliants
  • Ideal exfoliating range is between pH 3-4
  • Also used as a food additive

Malic Acid Description

Malic acid is an exfoliating ingredient derived from unripe fruit. It also occurs naturally in the human body as a by-product from turning carbohydrates into energy. Although it’s technically a beta hydroxy acid ingredient, it is primarily classified as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) because its hydroxyl group in the alpha position is believed to be dominant to the beta hydroxyl group. Also, it is not known to be oil-soluble like traditional beta hydroxy acid salicylic acid.

Malic acid is used in cosmetics to adjust a product’s pH and, in an acidic pH range ideally between 3 and 4, as a mild exfoliant that can be used in lower concentrations (typically between 1–2%) to boost the efficacy of other AHA exfoliants such as glycolic and lactic acids.

In foods, malic acid is sometimes added to impart a sour or tart flavor. In its raw form, malic acid appears as white or colorless crystals. It is considered safe as used in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics.

Malic Acid References

The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, August 2018, pages 21-28

Molecules, April 2018, page 863

https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/malic%20acid.pdf

Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery Global Open, December 2016, ePublication

Biological Research, January 2015, ePublication

Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigative Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding usage constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.
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