Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl Malate at a Glance

• Emollient made from a fatty alcohol + malic acid
• Excellent moisturizing + softening properties
• Aids pigment dispersion in makeup
• Considered more stable for lipsticks than castor oil
• May be synthetic or animal-derived

Diisostearyl Malate Description

Diisostearyl malate is the diester of lipid-based isostearyl alcohol and the alpha hydroxy acid malic acid. A diester is any compound containing two ester groups. Esters play many roles in cosmetics, from texture enhancing and viscosity control to hydration, softening and stabilizing.

Diisostearyl malate’s main roles in cosmetics are being an emollient and solvent. This animal-derived or synthetic ingredient (Paula’s Choice uses the latter) ingredient is supplied as a liquid. It can significantly enhance the texture, slip and moisturization of various cosmetics, including moisturizers, sunscreens, lip balms and lipsticks.

Specific to color cosmetics, diisostearyl malate is used to help dispense pigments in an emollient base or bind powders in dry-finish makeup. It has castor oil-like properties but overall better oxidative stability, meaning it’s less likely to suffer from rancidity over time.

Use levels of this oil-soluble emollient typically range from 2–10%, although some suppliers recommend use levels up to 60%. It’s considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing and has been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board.

Diisostearyl Malate References